Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

We could quote plenty of famous creative people.. fashion designers, writers, architects, artists, artisans, musicians… on the importance of paying attention to details. Perhaps the best-known phrase is attributed to German architect Mies Van der Rohe, who probably borrowed his “God is in the details” from someone else, who may have said something slightly different. Whatever the case, the point is, details matter.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

So what does this have to do with our Top + Bottom Top? Everything. At first glance, this lovely little pullover, perfect for summer knitting and wearing, looks like just that: a lovely little pullover. Simplicity itself. And it is.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

But there are design elements that give our Top + Bottom Top quiet gravitas: the wisp of a hem around the bottom, shoulder seams that skew to the back, and pretty armhole and neckline decreases. It’s the kind of sweater your impeccably stylish friend would own… And you’d want to borrow.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

It’s no surprise that Cattail Silk, a yarn spun and dyed in Japan, is knitted throughout, beginning with an ephemeral hem. We used the color Flower Field Gray to make it, then picked up another Japanese beauty, the raw and refined Field Linen in Queen Anne’s Lace, to knit the piece in the round to the underarms. Working the front and back yoke in just the Cattail Silk creates a seamless shift in weight and texture.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Both yarns are available in palettes that complement each other no matter the combination. There are 18 different shades of Cattail Silk and 11 colors of Field Linen to choose from, so pick your favorites and cast on for your summertime Top + Bottom Top!

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Materials

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Gauge

  • 28 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on smaller needle with one strand of Yarn A
  • 22 stitches and 27 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needle with one strand of Yarn A and one strand of Yarn B

Sizes

32¾ (35, 38¼, 41½, 44¾, 47) inches

To fit actual chest circumference of 30-31 (32-33, 35-36, 38-39, 41-42, 44-45) inches, with 2-3 inches of positive ease

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 32¾ (35, 38¼, 41½, 44¾, 47) inches
  • Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22¼ (22½, 22¾, 23½, 23¾, 24½) inches
  • Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 (14, 14, 14¼, 14¼, 14¾) inches

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

SAMPLE: The Top pictured here is size 38¼, modeled with 2 inches of ease.

Notes

Csd (centered single decrease): This single centered decrease is worked over three stitches and is essentially an ssk followed by a k2tog. Here’s how to do it… Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time. Insert left needle into front of the two slipped stitches, knit together. Now, insert left needle into the second of the two just-worked slipped stitches, k2tog (the next stitch on the left needle and the slipped stitch you just picked up). [1 stitch decreased]

K3tog (knit 3 together): Insert right needle into next three stitches and knit together. [2 stitches decreased]

Ssp (slip, slip, purl): Slip one purlwise, slip one knitwise, replace slipped stitches back onto left needle, p2tog through the back loop. [1 stitch decreased]

Sssk (slip, slip, slip, knit): Slip three stitches knitwise, one at a time. Insert left needle into front of slipped stitches and knit together. [2 stitches decreased]

Pattern

Body

With Yarn A, cast 240 (256, 280, 304, 328, 344) stitches onto the longer, smaller needle.

Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round being careful to not twist the stitches.

Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures ¾ inch from cast-on edge.

Change to larger needle and join Yarn B. Continue with Yarns A and B held together.

Decrease Round: *K1, csd (see Notes), repeat from * to end of round. [180 (192, 210, 228, 246, 258) stitches]

Continue even, knitting each round until piece measures 14 (14, 14, 14¼, 14¼, 14¾) inches from cast-on edge.

Bind Off Row: Bind off 11 (11, 11, 14, 16, 16) stitches for Right Underarm, knit until there are 79 (85, 94, 100, 107, 113) stitches on right needle, place these 79 (85, 94, 100, 107, 113) stitches on hold for Back, bind off 11 (11, 11, 14, 16, 16) stitches for Left Underarm, knit to end of round. [79 (85, 94, 100, 107, 113) stitches remain for Front]

Front Yoke

Shape Armholes

NOTE: This section will be worked back and forth on just the Front stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Cut Yarn B.

Change to smaller, shorter needles and continue with only Yarn A.

Row 2 (right side): K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2), *knit into front and back of next stitch (k1fb), k2, repeat from * to end of row. [105 (113, 125, 133, 142, 150) stitches]

Row 3: P4, p2tog, purl to last 6 stitches, ssp (see Notes), purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]

Row 4: K4, ssk, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 zero (0, 2, 3, 4, 5) more times. [101 (109, 113, 117, 122, 126) stitches]

Next Row: Purl.

Next Row: Repeat Row 4. [2 stitches decreased]

Repeat previous two rows one (1, 2, 3, 5, 7) more time(s). [97 (105, 107, 109, 110, 110) stitches]

Next Row: Purl.

Next Row: Knit.

Next Row: Purl.

Next Row: Repeat Row 4. [2 stitches decreased]

Repeat previous four rows one (3, 2, 2, 1, 0) more time(s). [93 (97, 101, 103, 106, 108) stitches]

Continue

Still working on just the Front stitches, continue in stockinette stitch, knitting the right-side rows and purling the wrong-side rows, until piece measures 5½ (5¾, 6, 6¼, 6½, 6¾) inches from Underarm stitches.

Bind off for Front Neckline

Row 1 (right side): K36 (37, 38, 38, 39, 39), place previous 36 (37, 38, 38, 39, 39) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Left, bind off following 21 (23, 25, 27, 28, 30) stitches for Front Neckline, knit to end of row. [36 (37, 38, 38, 39, 39) stitches remain for Front Right]

Work Front Right

NOTE: This section will be worked back and forth on just the Front Right stitches, still using just Yarn A.

NOTE: For a clean neck edge, use the sloped bind off.

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2 (right side): Bind off 3 stitches, knit to end of row. [33 (34, 35, 35, 36, 36) stitches]

Row 3: Purl.

Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, k4, ssk, knit to end of row. [30 (31, 32, 32, 33, 33) stitches]

Row 5: Purl.

Row 6: Bind off 1 stitch, k3, ssk, knit to end of row. [28 (29, 30, 30, 31, 31) stitches]

Row 7: Purl.

Row 8: K4, ssk, knit to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]

Rows 9 and 10: Repeat Rows 7 and 8. [26 (27, 28, 28, 29, 29) stitches]

Row 11: Purl.

Row 12: Knit.

Row 13: Purl.

Row 14: Repeat Row 8. [25 (26, 27, 27, 28, 28) stitches]

Work evenly in stockinette stitch, knitting the right-side rows and purling the wrong-side rows, until piece measures 9 (9¼, 9½, 10, 10¼, 10½) inches from Underarm, ending with a wrong-side row.

Place stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn.

Cut yarn leaving a 20-inch tail.

Work Front Left

NOTE: This section will be worked back and forth on just the Front Left stitches, still using just Yarn A.

Join yarn to right side.

Row 1 (right side): Knit.

Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, purl to end of row. [33 (34, 35, 35, 36, 36) stitches]

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, p4, p2tog, purl to end of row. [30 (31, 32, 32, 33, 33) stitches]

Row 5: Knit.

Row 6: Bind off 1 stitch purlwise, p3, p2tog, purl to end of row. [28 (29, 30, 30, 31, 31) stitches]

Row 7: Knit.

Row 8: P4, p2tog, purl to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]

Rows 9 and 10: Repeat Rows 7 and 8. [26 (27, 28, 28, 29, 29) stitches]

Row 11: Knit.

Row 12: Purl.

Row 13: Knit.

Row 14: Repeat Row 8. [25 (26, 27, 27, 28, 28) stitches]

Work evenly in stockinette stitch, knitting the right-side rows and purling the wrong-side rows, until piece measures 9 (9¼, 9½, 10, 10¼, 10½) inches from Underarm, ending with a wrong-side row.

Place stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn.

Cut yarn leaving a 20-inch tail.

Back Yoke

NOTE: This section will be worked back and forth on just the Back stitches, still using just Yarn A.

Shape Armholes

Work as for Shape Armholes section of FRONT YOKE. [93 (97, 101, 103, 106, 108) stitches]

Continue

Continue evenly in stockinette stitch until piece measures 5 (5¼, 5½, 6, 6¼, 6½) inches from Underarm, ending with a wrong-side row.

Mark the first and last stitch of this row with a removable stitch marker.

Shape Back Shoulders

Row 1 (right side): K4, sssk (see Notes), knit to last 7 stitches, k3tog (see Notes), k4. [4 stitches decreased]

Row 2 (wrong side): P4, p2tog, purl to last 6 stitches, ssp, p4. [2 stitches decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven (7, 8, 8, 8, 8) more times. [45 (49, 47, 49, 52, 54) stitches]

Size – (35, – , – ,  – , – ) Only

Next Row (right side): K4, sssk, knit to last 7 stitches, k3tog, k4. [- (45, – , – , – , – ) stitches]

Next Row: Purl.

Size 32¾ ( -, – , – , 44¾, 47) Only

Next Row (right side): K4, ssk, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, k4. [43 ( -, – , – , 50, 52) stitches]

Next Row: Purl.

All Sizes

Do not cut yarn. Set the ball of yarn aside for now, still attached to the Back.

Finish

Seam Shoulders

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Left Shoulder

Slip the on-hold Front Left stitches onto a double pointed needle. Hold the double pointed needle in front of the parallel Back Shoulder edge, with the double pointed needle in front. Working from the Armhole towards the Neckline, use Yarn A to graft the Front Left stitches to the Back Shoulder by working the stitches on the double pointed needle and picking up into the Back Shoulder and binding off as you go. Here’s how…

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Insert an additional double pointed needle into the first stitch on the front needle…

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

…then, insert the working needle under both legs of the first stitch at the edge of the Back Shoulder, marked by the removable stitch marker.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Knit together the stitch on the front needle with the Back Shoulder stitch, using the 20-inch yarn tail from the Front Left.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Repeat these steps, knitting the next stitch from the front needle together with the next stitch along the Back Shoulder edge.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Now that you have two stitches on the working needle, bind one off!

Continue in this fashion working the Front Left stitches together with the stitches from the Back Shoulder edge, binding off as you go.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Right Shoulder

Slip the on-hold Front Right stitches onto a double pointed needle. Hold the double pointed needle parallel to the adjacent edge of the Back Shoulder, with the double pointed needle in front. To graft the Front Right stitches to the Back Shoulder, work as you did for the Left Shoulder, but this time working from the Neckline towards the Armhole.

Edge Neckline

Returning to the Back stitches on the needles, with the right side facing you, use the yarn that is still attached to bind off, knitwise, all the remaining Back stitches. Continue around the Neckline, picking up 1 stitch into each row or stitch and binding off as you go.

Edge Armholes

NOTE: Do the following for each Armhole.

With the right side facing you, join Yarn A at center of Underarm and using double pointed needles, pick up 1 stitch into each stitch or row around the entire Armhole edge, binding off as you go.

Weave + Block

Weave in remaining ends and block as desired.

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

Top + Bottom Top | Purl Soho

 

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